Review: Koume Japanese House

Good news everybody! We have a second review up this week - this time one of our regular haunts. Check back soon for what we thought of Rise's Special 7-course Easter degustation...

I was first introduced to Koume three years ago by a friend who had been a regular since he was 10. At the time, my friend was 26. That he had been going to Koume for most of his life reveals a lot about the restaurant. Koume is not usually buzzing, but the family-run joint does have its group of loyal followers, attracted by the good food, homey decor and warm service.


The following is small, but dedicated. Whenever we have been there theres usually a few free tables, but there is almost always a table who will be greeted and talked to by the owners on a first name basis.

I explain Koume's modest business as the menu being ahead its time for Australia. In a time and place where Japanese food can often simply mean Sushi/Sashimi/Green Tea Ice Cream, Koume stands as an important bucking of the norm of Sydney Japanese food. Koume aims to deliver more traditional, country style Japanese which I guess means the restaurant menu might seem a little inaccessible to less adventurous diners (well, that and what we get into later).



However, Sushi, Sashimi and most of the other standard Japanese fare is present and done well. The fish in the Sushi/Sashimi is generally much fresher than many Japanese restaurants of this price, though for the wasabi sensitive there is a lethal amount on the Sushi. Old favourites like Oyaku Don, Shumai and Gyoza are there too but we will elaborate on them later. Where the menu really rewards customers and where Koume distinguishes itself, is those dishes that you find more uncommonly such as my particular favourite - the Katsu Tama-Toji. There are things on the menu that you won't see around often and it makes Koume a place worth repeated visits.

The service front is a love/hate thing. The lady who serves is extremely energetic and friendly. You'll usually find her grinning from ear to ear in a way that I think freaks some people out. You'll notice there's a review in Eatability that comments on her being "weird". However, I personally like her and appreciate her friendliness but it's no shock that others don't.

On a similar wavelength is the decor of the place. Though rather dated, there is something friendly that emanates from the arrangement of the restaurant. Its hard to pinpoint why, but it feels soothing and relaxing to be in Koume - it almost feels like being in somebody's home. There is a definite sense of love and pride in the way things are done by the owners.

Despite what we've said above, we do need to mention a few shortcomings of the place, or what some might consider shortcomings. As we've pointed out, Koume is a family-run joint with mainly just the the husband in charge of food preparation. As a result, they have had to take a few short cuts with the food preparation. The gyoza dumplings for example definitely comes out of a frozen packet, as other dishes like the harumaki spring rolls probably do as well (kudos for preparing them well and ensuring that they're tasty, though). Perhaps we are being unduly fussy though. I'm sure that these short cuts are not unique to Koume at all.

We'd also like to caution readers that this is not a place to take someone on an early date, or to head with a group of friends to for a rip-roaring time. As you've probably already worked out for yourself. Koume is a little too sedate for that. It's a familiar, comfortable place to head to with people whom these adjectives also apply to. Though late one Saturday night, we heard Triple J being played on the restaurant radio. We suspect that the son had control over the sound system then. Koume is obviously not a flashy and awe-inspiring restaurant. The cutlery and crockery also often don't match. In fact, it's probably these things that keep people away more than the menu I must admit.

Also, preparation time can be an issue. Its generally best to avoid Koume during its busy hours. The restaurant is run by a husband (who cooks) a wife (who serves) and their son (who helps on Saturdays). Having only one chef can certainly slow things down when it is busy - particularly with, as the restaurant warns, the boxsets. Pretty long menu, small kitchen and few employees, you do the math. However, at other times of day the food is prepared suprisingly quickly.

But for all we've said we are nit-picking right now. The bottom line is that Koume is a mixed bag of weaknesses and strengths that arent always immediately apparent. If you are willing to look past the weaknesses then go to Koume already. It's not in-your-face impressive but we dare say that you will be pleasantly surprised.

What we ate:

- Entree Sized Sashimi Platter ($7)
- Katsu Tama-Toji ($12)
- Teriyaki Beef Box ($14)

Koume Japanese House:

8/81 Military Road,
Neutral Bay, NSW, 2089
+ 61 2 9908 4280


Related Links:

Koume on Eatability

Here comes Koume - what I found when I googled "Koume"

(Special thanks to Laura for the great photography)