Saturday, April 29, 2006

Review: Kenta

Kenta's philosophy is to provide authentic Japanese food in large portions at unparalleled prices. Looking at only these Kenta is mostly very successful, however on it's quest for rock-bottom prices Kenta often leaves good service and restaurant atmosphere behind.

Neutral Bay parking aside, getting to the point where you are seated and ready to order can be a bit of an ordeal at Kenta. Most nights of the week, Kenta is packed out completely leaving most people waiting (inside and outside of the restaurant) and pushing to get a table. Depending on the day of the week, lunch can sometimes be as bad. Once you are seated, you'll notice from the stream of phone orders that Kenta seems to do just as good a business out of take-away, which customers receive an extra 10% of off.




For the most part, Laura and I prefer to avoid the hassle of Kenta which either means fronting up as the restaurant opens (which usually guarentees quick seating) or simply going somewhere else if it is as busy as it usually is. Kenta is almost impossible for groups of three or more because apart from the eight seater bar, there are only two tables set up that seat four people. The issue of space in Kenta is not helped by the fact the the semi-open kitchen dominates about three quaters of the restaurant floor space.

However, we have never been to Kenta and not been overwhelmed by the value of most of the menu. Value bordering on ridiculous can be found in the lunch sets, which provide enough food for three meals and average around $9 in price. We have seen couples at Kenta split lunch sets between them and still leave full.

Other parts of the menu express good value too. An order of Chicken Katsu for dinner ($10.50) for example, will provide two chicken breasts, a large cabbage salad and a small bit of potato salad to boot. Noodle sets (averaging around $12) give a big bowl of noodles, vegetables and meat as well as a large side of Katsu Don, Oyako Don, Sushi/Sashimi or Japanese Curry. It's worth noting that there are a few isolated dishes that dot the menu here and there which don't provide the same kind of value. Notable examples we have come across include the noodle stir fries such Yaki Udon. On the same wavelength, dinner sets can rack up bills of over $15 each and usually don't provide as much as their $8 lunch counterparts. But if you order something at Kenta you can reasonably expect to be very full and not too short on cash afterward.




We have just spent a lot of words on the value of Kenta, but we were right to do so. If you go there you will come to understand the value is absurd and the reason people fight to get a table. What no one would defend Kenta over is the atmosphere. Kenta obviously makes its profits from the sheer amount of business it does, rather than the dish prices. A lot of money doesn't seem to have been left to decorate the place. Besides the specials whiteboard and a red latern hanging inconspicuously from the roof, Kenta's visual appearance is mostly plain grey walls, grey tables and off-the-delivery-truck boxes of chopsticks, soy sauce and everything inbetween.

The service isn't all bad at Kenta but it is a mixed bag. The staff are pleasingly polite (we have never felt rudely treated) and do an admirable job but are sometimes unable to keep up with the hectic business. This can mean during busier times not getting fairly seated, sometimes ignored and food being brought out at different times. On our most recent visit Laura's Ton Kotsu Ramen came signifcantly later than my main. Its not so much an issue at lunch because it is so cheap, but for dinners you can be forking an amount comparable to places that do things better.




The food itself at Kenta is pretty good. While all of Kenta's punches are pulled by the value, the food has never caused us or anyone we have taken there any significant disappointment. The sushi and sashimi are suprisingly good. As you can see by the photos, having a dedicated sushi/sashimi chef at Kenta has paid off. The fish is well selected, cut and made when necessary. The fish is much fresher than you'd expect at Kenta's prices and there is variety. Our main size Sushi had scallop, scampi, tuna, salmon, cuttlefish and flying fish roe. The sushi and sashimi tend to be among the most expensive dishes but they still stand out in our minds as good value and good in general.

Kenta is mostly known as a Ramen bar and interestingly enough, the noodle soups are probably the most underwhelming menu item. The Ramen comes in a big bowl but aside from a cursory piece of the respective meat you order, there is very little in there that isn't either broth or noodle. Not to say either of those are bad, but the Ramen needs more variety (despite what it looks like in the picture below). Also, we would cavaet people about the chicken. We suppose it is one of the shortcuts taken because of the mammoth business they do, but we warn you that Kenta leaves a disappointing amount of fat on the chicken. It is hard to seperate the fat from the meat with only chopsticks and impossible if the chicken in question is Katsu. But, with those pitfalls mentioned, it is hard to go wrong at Kenta.




We'll never say that Kenta is not worth a try. The value of the place is astronomical and the food is good for the most part. If you try it you might become a regular there or you might end up hating it, but we'll guarentee that you won't forget the amount of food you get for your dollar.



What we ate:

Agedashi Tofu ($4.90)
Sushi (Main) ($13.50)
Katsu Don (Pork) and Miso Soup ($10.50)
Ton Kotsu Ramen ($8.50)
Lunch Set B (Agedashi Tofu + Rice and Miso + Calamari, Fish Teriyaki, Potato Salad and Cabbage) ($7.90)

Kenta:

81 Military Road,
Neutral Bay, NSW, 2089
+ 61 2 9953 5422


Related Links:

Kenta on Eatability

Kenta the sexy loser

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